Okay, now we're ready to go. Again, I've mixed this in the KitchenAid, but you can do it by hand; just replace the paddle with a wooden spoon or a dough whisk if you have one, and replace the dough hook with your own two hands. You may need to knead it for an extra two minutes, but really, it will all come out.
Take your sponge and pour it into a mixer bowl. Ooo and ahh over the sharp tangy smell, the network of bubbles, the stretchy, stretchy gluten.
Once it's in the bowl, add the water, wine and salt. Mix until the sponge is broken up and the liquid is milky. (It's easiest to start this with your hands, then let the paddle take over.
Add the flour in three increments (if you add it all at once, you run the risk of the mixer kicking flour back up into your face. Mix until flour is completely incorporated.
Switch to the dough hook and knead on slow speed for 6 minutes. Initially the dough will clean the bowl, then it will begin to stick a bit. Don't worry, it's supposed to. When the dough is done, it will be soft and a little sticky. If it's very sticky, add more flour, but keep a light hand: this is supposed to be a soft, wet dough. When it's done, the dough will be smooth but the surface will look broken; again, this is okay. It will smooth out during fermentation.
Pour a couple tablespoons of oil into a large bowl. Turn the dough into the oiled bowl and turn it over until the surface is covered with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and leave to ferment until about 2 - 2 1/2 times its original size. This will take at least 90 minutes, although I usually give it two hours.
The hardest part is over. From here on in, it's a doddle.