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Monday, April 04, 2005

We're starting simply tonight, intrepid breadheads:  one white starter recipe, one rye starter recipe, from nothing but flour and water to (hopefully) a happy, bubbling culture six days later.  We will build starters, we might have a little discussion about baker's percentage's, but that's it for now.  This is mostly due to my desire not to bludgeon you over the head with too much information, too soon, but also due to the inevitable and sad aftereffects of insomnia on my little mind.  (Apparently at one point at the office today, I sat with my mouth hanging open for a good three minutes, until I caught my reflection in my computer monitor.  If a picture had been taken of me up to that moment, and if you had been asked to write a caption for that picture, I'm betting that seven out of ten of you would have written "Braiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiins..."wink

But back to the topic at hand.  For ease of explanation, I'll explain what I did, i.e. how I built my starters (scaling down a bit, of course, because I built my starters at Chef Jeffrey Hamelman's Advanced Bread Baking class at the King Arthur Flour Baking Education Center, where we were working with much larger quantities of dough), but I hasten to reiterate that these starters are not the be-all and end-all of starters.  There are dozens, if not hundreds, of terrific books on bread baking that can point you toward something that you can use with ease.  I will be glad to share a list of those terrific books, but for now, leave us roll up our sleeves and get to work.

White Sourdough Starter (a/k/a chef)

Day one:  In a bowl, crock or plastic container, combine 250 grams whole rye (or pumpernickel) flour, 312 grams warm water (about 85-90F) and 5g honey (the honey is optional, but it will assist in the fermentation process). Mix well, cover and leave for 24 hours.

Day two:  Measure 285 grams of the day one mix; discard the rest of the mix and return the scaled mix to the bowl.  Add 67.5 grams whole rye flour, 57.5 grams all-purpose flour and 155 grams warm (90F) water.  Mix well, cover and leave to ferment.  Do this twice on Day Two, about 12 hours apart.

Day three through five:  Measure 282.5 grams of the starter mix; discard the rest.  To the reserved starter add 125 grams all-purpose flour and 156 grams 85F-degree water.  Feed the starter in these proportions twice a day.  By day six you should have an active culture, ready for raising bread, but Chef Hamelman advises that if you can keep feeding it for two or three more days, you will have a stronger and more complexly-flavored starter.

Rye Sourdough Starter (a/k/a rye chef)

Day one:  Combine 227 grams whole rye (or pumpernickel) flour and 227 grams warm water (90F).  Mix, cover and let ferment for 24 hours.

Day two and three:  Measure 125 grams of mix; discard the rest.  Add 125 grams of whole rye flour and 125 grams of warm water.  Mix, cover and let ferment.  Feed this starter once a day for these two days, unless it becomes so vigorous so quickly that you think it can support a second feeding (unlikely at this stage, but possible).

Day four and five: Feed the starter in the same proportions you used in days two and three, only this time give the starter two daily feedings, not just one.  Like the white chef, the rye chef should be ready for baking by Day Six, but if you can hold off for a couple more days, the resultant starter will be stronger and better flavored.

More will follow, dear friends, when I am not quite so brainfully challenged.  (Braiiiiiiiiiins...)

 

Posted by Bakerina at 11:31 PM in • (4) Comments • (0) Trackbacks

Cathy, do not be dismayed.  The half-gram was just another example of my insomnia brain in play.  In class we were told that we had up to four grams of leeway in any direction.  I assure you that the half-gram is not going to make or break you.  Go ahead and round up.

Good question on the bottled water.  When I start a new culture, I always used bottled water, as our water is chlorinated and chlorine can inhibit the growth of new yeasts.  Once the culture has taken root, I switch to tap water, but I let it sit at room temp for a few hours; this dissipates the chlorine.

Again, I realize that this has been a bit sketchy, but I promise to fill in the gaps.

Collena, m’love, do not fear the bread.  It only sounds unsanitary, but it actually makes the world go around.  smile

Bakerina on 04/05/05 at 09:30 AM  

Nope, e, you read that right.  Rye flour is more effective at catching wild yeasts than all-purpose flour, so you start the white culture with all rye flour on the first day, a mix of rye and a.p. on the second day, and then all a.p. flour after the third day.  Once your starter is active, if you ever think it could do with a bit of a flavor boost, you can give it a rye and/or whole wheat feeding.  On the other hand, you never want to introduce any other flour but rye into your rye starter; that one should be kept “pure”.  For this reason, I always feed the rye starter first.

Bakerina on 04/05/05 at 08:19 PM  

Oh, e...and here I was, thinking about how to revise the bread recipe so that you would not have to bother with the rye starter.  (It’s not a matter of just subbing white starter for rye, because the hydration rates are different.) That said, I’m glad you’re trying the rye starter, as the breads you can make from it will be so delicious.

Do not, do not, do not panic about the state of your rye starter!  For the first 24 hours it will just look like thick mud, and it will smell bad.  Keep feeding it, equal weights of everything.  The temptation will be strong to throw in more water, but resist it if you can.  Most rye bread recipes are written with the assumption that your sour is at 100% hydration.  It might take more than three days—it might take five, even—but eventually the rye starter will shoot up and have masses of tiny little bubbles.  When the starter is really ripe, you can pull the lid off the container and actually hear the starter crackle a bit.  It’s such an amazing sound.

Dear e, and other friends, I have not forgotten about the bread recipe.  I’ve been having a bit of trouble writing this week.  I promise you, we will be turning this stuff into bread, and it will be good.

Bakerina on 04/09/05 at 10:39 AM  

Oh, e, I know that guilt well.  smile I used to try to assuage it by pouring off the surplus onto parchment-lined sheet pans, letting it dry, breaking it into chips, bagging it up and offering it to friends and fellow bakers.  Unfortunately, my baking friends already had starters of their own, and the non-baking friends were too intimidated to try keeping a starter alive.  Ah, well.

The issue of refrigerating starters is controversial.  Most professional bakers I know frown on refrigeration, claiming that cold storage destroys some of the more nuanced flavors in the final bread.  However, the thing about pro bakers is that they are baking hundreds of loaves every day, and thus can build exactly as much starter as they need.  Home bakers, by contrast, usually don’t bake more than twice a week, if that.  I’d say don’t make yourself nuts:  if you need to fridge it, fridge it.  The only problem with refrigerating, in my view, is that it requires a little planning:  you should give your starter at least two feeds, preferably three, before you use it for baking.  If you want to bake on Saturday, for example, start feeding your starter on Thursday morning, or even Wednesday night.

Bakerina on 04/18/05 at 09:05 AM  
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