January 25, 2005
A moment of forbearance, please, dear friends. With any luck, this will be the absolute, positive last time I will inflict this discussion on you.
Since the results of the BoB awards were posted, I received a lot of lovely words, on e-mail and here on PTMYB, from many of you. Most of you were congratulatory, which is delightful. Some of you cried "you wuz robbed!," which is less delightful, but I understand that it came from a place of love. After all, we all love it when good things happen to our friends, and if we think that something is amiss, it is in our nature to call foul when we see it. But I have heard mutterings of "you wuz robbed" that imply darker motives on behalf of the other contestants in this contest, and that, dear friends, is not cool. (Likewise, the person who accused me in an e-mail of similar darker motives, that's not cool, either, but we'll get to that.)
Dear ones, the point of the BoB Awards was not just to bring recognition to people who blog, and blog well; it was also to introduce us to each other. There are a lot of us, toiling away with varying degrees of commitment and complexity, so many of us that it's not always possible to sort out the better noise from the just-plain-louder noise. Hence the good people at One on One decided to do something about this, and for all the fighting about methodology and vote-certifying, they did the job and did it very well. One thing is for certain: thanks to the BoBs, I now regularly visit nine new sites I hadn't been aware of before. And -- because, to paraphrase Pee-Wee Herman, everybody's got a big "and" -- the authors of those nine sites regularly visit me. I visited their sites, I left comments, I invited them to visit, they visited, they left comments, and thus do conversations start.
You are probably wondering if we are tap-dancing in the vicinity of a point yet. Yes, we are. The point is that unless, or until, you troll me, everyone is welcome here. No one should ever feel like there is a table in the cafeteria at which they don't belong. If I start hearing comments, no matter how oblique, about whether the results of this contest were manipulated, particularly if they are directed at any particular individual, I will take them down. I am not fooling around when I say this.
I have already taken down one comment, from someone I really love, who I know only meant it as an expression of love, but in my judgment, it still had to go. It doesn't matter how oblique a comment may be: even if the author of the comment doesn't identify the subject, and only the subject knows that s/he is the subject, it's still coming down. There is nothing worse than stumbling across a harsh comment about you on a public site, particulary when the commenter doesn't think you'll find it. Friends, it's a small world out there. You would be surprised how findable we all are.
Of course, this cuts both ways. If you are a new visitor to this page, you are more than welcome, as I said above. If, however, you decide it would be really cute to start trolling me, or my husband, or my friends, just wait and see how fast I move. Your comment will be deleted (unless I choose to keep it up so that we can mock it) and your IP address will be banned. Remember that troll who said that evil, vicious shit about Lloyd? Of course you don't. There's a reason.
Now please. Let us be kind to one another. But if we can't be kind to one another, let us take it somewhere else. Like here, for example. 
Dear friends, I couldn't have done it without you. You called, you wrote, you got out the vote -- and without needing Madonna or Lenny Kravitz to help you, either! -- and thus was it that Prepare to Meet Your Loudmouthed Showboater Bakerina placed second at the first annual Best of Blog Awards, amidst some very stiff competition indeed. Congratulations and a round of applause to the lovely, kind and craftalicious Dawn at My Life With Garlic, who won the top honor, the blue ribbon, first prize (why do I feel the urge to burst into the Cole Porter songbook right now?); and to that cookin' mama at This Mama Cooks!, who placed third (but whose beautiful roasted vegetables will always be tops in my book).
Astute friends will notice that I created a whole 'nother blogroll that includes all of the wondrous BoB Award finalists, as well as some other food sites that are definitely worth your time and attention. Why not stop on by and say hi? You'll be glad you did, and so will they. (Be sure to say hello to Moira at Who Wants Seconds and Raspberry Sour at The Sour Patch; they are new bloggers who hit the ground running fast, and they did it with both style and substance.)
Thanks to everyone who voted, who nominated me (and with such kind words, too!), who cheered and razzed and egged me on. As you may have ascertained by the embarrassingly slight number of posts, this has not exactly been the easiest of Januaries, but at the end of it -- yes, I know we're only talking about a week or so -- I can look back and say wow, that was fun. Thank you, dear ones.
Dear friends, since it is well after midnight in Scotland, I can safely say happy birthday to one of my favorite men, Robert Burns. I can also say thank you to another of my favorite men, who saw me looking sad and forlorn one day and decided that I needed a little consolation, a little love in a jar, a little more love in the form of a wide-mouthed jar filled with the best blackberry jam I have ever had the privilege of eating, and a little chocolate to perk up the endorphins. Best of all, I can say it all by way of Mr. Robert Burns's poem, which begins with probably the most famous, and definitely most fun to recite, couplet in Scottish poetry.
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To A Mouse. |
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Wee sleekit, cow'rin, tim'rous beastie, O, what a panic's in thy breastie! Thou need na start awa sae hasty, Wi bickering brattle! I wad be laith to rin an chase thee, Wi murdering pattle!
I'm truly sorry man's dominion Has broken Nature's social union, An justifies that ill opinion, Which makes thee startle At me, thy poor, earth-born companion. An fellow mortal!
I doubt na, whyles, but thou may thieve: What then? poor beastie, thou maun live! A daimen icker in a thrave 'S a sma request; I'll get a blessin wi the lave, An never miss't!
Thy wee-bit housie, too, in ruin! Its silly wa's the win's are strewin! An naething, now, to big a new ane, O foggage green! An bleak December's win's ensuin. Baith snell an keen!
Thou saw the fields laid bare an waste, An weary winter comin fast. An cozie here, beneath the blast, Thou thought to dwell, Till crash! the cruel coulter past Out thro thy cell.
That wee bit heap o leaves an stibble, Has cost thee monie a weary nibble! Now thou's turn'd out, for a' thy trouble. But house or hald, To thole the winter's sleety dribble, An cranreuch cauld!
But Mousie, thou art no thy lane, In proving foresight may be vain: The best-laid schemes o mice an men Gang aft agley, An lea'e us nought but grief an pain, For promis'd joy!
Still thou art blest, compar'd wi me! The present only toucheth thee: But och! I backward cast my e'e, On prospects drear! An forward, tho I canna see, I guess an fear!
(A postscript to my favorite sleekit, cow'rin, tim'rous beastie: this would be the point where I would put up the link to your blog and encourage people to follow it. It's very difficult to do this when you don't give me a blog to which to link. Dude, what do I have to do to get you to say yes?) |
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Bakerina at 12:58 AM in
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January 23, 2005
As has been pointed out in this space in the past, I am not the blossoming flower of a girl that I used to be, so I should just get over this childish love of snow days. I realize that part of the reason I still get a kick out of snow is because, not having a car, I don't actually have to drive on it. When I moved back to my redneck mountain town on the ass-end of northeastern Pennsylvania after graduating from college, I got a job on the local paper, a job that necessitated that I drive from one end of the county to another on an almost-hourly basis. I did not love snow that winter. Well, no, I lie. I did not love driving on snow. But I loved it when I was safe at home, knowing that as long as I called my story in to the managing editor, who lived close enough to the paper to be able to get in, I would get a free pass for the rest of the day to drink tea and watch snowflakes the size of dimes float through the air.
We got all of our snow on the weekend, starting at noon on Saturday, wrapping up this afternoon, leaving a foot of the dry powdery stuff, a bitch if you want to throw snowballs, but just what you want if your primary concern is shoveling the stuff off the sidewalk. We went out early, before the snow started, to do all of the chores -- laundry, groceries, etc. -- that we would normally do on Sunday. Lloyd braved the milk + bread + egg-buying throngs to pick up his lunch supplies for the week, while I moved from butcher shop to Italian deli to sandwich shop to vegetable market, breathing in that sharp cold scent of nothing that signifies that snow is on the way. In the time it took me to buy a bundle of leeks, a bunch of celery and a little bag of carrots, the snow started, and not tentatively, either; no isolated flakes kicking off this nor'easter, thank you very much. That was it for me and Lloyd and the outside world for the rest of the day: we bundled in, opened the curtains so we could watch the snow fall, puttered about our three little rooms, watched our new Napoleon Dynamite dvd, followed it up with some cheesy 70's monster chiller horror theatre special. I took advantage of the housebound time to make another pot of soup, beef and leek and barley this week, augmented with carrots, celery, tomatoes and some dried Christmas lima beans I bought on my last trip to Kalustyan's. Since the Shaker lemon pie was gone, I decided to make the buttermilk pie that has been haunting my pie dreams, vanilla bean/buttermilk pie, the standard vanilla extract of most buttermilk pie recipes replaced with the seeds of two vanilla pods, scraped from the pod, added to the sugar and zizzed in the food processor.
It should be the stuff of baking dreams, this buttermilk pie, and I'm sure that at worst it will be just fine, but my kitchen ballet failed me again this morning. Most of the pies I love to make require filling an unbaked shell and baking everything together. Custard pies, though, play by different rules. A custard pie must be baked gently. If you overbake a custard pie, or if you bake it at too hot a temperature, the proteins in the eggs will coil together too tightly, squeezing out the moisture that would otherwise be suspended throughout the custard. The custard will be grainy, weepy, just shy of scrambled eggs. But the gentle heat that is a friend to the custard is not a friend to the crust: if you bake a crust from raw at such low temperatures, the bottom crust will not bake sufficiently; out of the oven, the bottom crust will rapidly grow soggy, and the starchy taste of uncooked flour will not bake out entirely. Trust someone who has learned the hard way on this. The solution to this dilemma is to parbake the crust, and anyone who bakes a lot of pies -- or who reads a lot of baking books and dreams of baking a lot of pies -- the instructions will sound drearily familiar: Roll out your crust. Fill the pie plate. Chill the crust in the freezer. Get out your pie weights, or the dried beans or cherry pits you use for pie weights, and a 16" length of foil. Get your pie crust out of the freezer, mold the foil to fit the shell, pour in the pie weights, bake the crust for 15 minutes at 400 degrees F, open the oven, carefully remove the pie weights, prick any bubbles in the bottom crust with a fork, close the oven door, turn the heat down to 375, bake the crust for 12 more minutes, pull the shell out and let it cool before you fill it. I did all this, followed the process to the letter, and even with all my solicitous care, the crust still shrank by 1/2 inch -- not a crisis, but I was still despondent. It only got worse when I managed to slosh a bit of the custard over one of the shorter edges of the pie, sending the custard to the underside of the shell. All of that work and care to create a crisp bottom crust, shot, completely. I could feel my clumsy, short-tempered 11-year-old self returning with a vengeance. What kind of bakerina is it who can't even get a damn pie into the oven without drama?
"The oven is too narrow and the floor tilts," said Lloyd. "This oven has given you problems since we moved in. I really don't think it's you."
He is right, of course, as he also is when he reminds me that I always have a tiny little learning curve on pies I've never made before, using techniques I haven't used since culinary school. Nevertheless, I am still sheepish: I have made an Ugly Pie. Of course it will taste good: I was careful in the baking of the custard, and it is nigh impossible to combine eggs, sugar, vanilla beans and buttermilk and make something that doesn't taste good. Of course we know that the optimal word is flavor: didn't I spend weeks in pastry school doing "flavor puzzles," listing the ingredients in our pantry and coming up with flavors that belonged together? Did I not spend years reading pastry magazines that emphasized interesting sugar molding techniques and mile-high garnishes, and more years reading other pastry magazines that reversed the trend, that reminded us that all that foofaraw was unnecessary if the dessert itself didn't taste good? But even as I recite the litany of flavor, I remember that I was trained by a chef who received *his* training from Swiss pastry chefs, who are light-years beyond fastidious in terms of technique, of mixing and chilling and rolling a dough so that it doesn't lose half an inch in the baking. I was trained, at school, in restaurants and in bakeries, to make it look as good as it tasted, and today it was like I'd never spent a minute in school. I think of a line from Debby Bull's Blue Jelly: "The worst thing about being depressed was those days when it felt like I hadn't made any progress at all." Then I think of a long-ago Martha Stewart Christmas special, in which Martha and Julia Child made side-by-side croquembouches. (If you are not familiar with the croquembouche, you can see some lovely pictures of it here.) Martha's was perfect, all the cream puffs the same size, artfully glued together with caramel, the spun sugar forming perfect wreaths. Julia's was shorter, lopsided, not nearly so artful. "Oh, my," said Julia, "mine's not nearly as nice." "That's all right," said Martha. "Yours can be the rustic version." I try out the name: Rustic Vanilla Bean Buttermilk Pie. Nope. It's a dodge, that "rustic."
There is a picture of the pie, yes. I am not going to post it until we taste the pie, and I know once and for all whether this pie is a success, and if today's little misadventure was just that, a little misadventure.
Edit: The verdict is in. The pie is lovely. The picture is here. The recipe is available for anyone who would like to click on the cute little link below.
Vanilla Bean Buttermilk Pie
makes 1 9" pie
Pie crust of your choice, partially baked
1 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 vanilla beans, Madagascar or Mexican
3 large eggs
1 large egg yolk
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
3 tablespoons butter, melted (optional)*
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Set an oven rack at the bottom of the oven.
Place the sugar, flour and salt in a food processor. (If you do not have a food processor, you can do all of this in a blender, or by hand -- just be sure that the whites and yolks are thoroughly beaten together.) Split the vanilla beans with a paring knife, scrape the seeds from the beans and add the seeds to the food processor. Process the sugar and vanilla together for about 1 minute, until the sugar is thoroughly imbued with the vanilla. Add the eggs and egg yolk and process just until blended. Add the buttermilk and melted butter, if using, and process just until blended once more.
Pour the filling into the pie shell. Place the pie on a baking sheet lined with foil, parchment or a Silpat (to catch drips). Bake for 40 minutes, rotating halfway through the bake so that the pie bakes evenly. The pie will still be liquid, so rotate with care! If the edges brown too quickly, wrap them with foil wrap or a pie shield. The pie is done when it is still a little wobbly in the center; the residual heat in the pie will continue to cook it after you take it out of the oven. Serve at room temperature or chilled.
* Most of the buttermilk pie recipes I've come across call for a little butter. I had planned to add it, but I had a brain moment as I was putting the pie together and didn't realize I'd forgotten it until hours later. I think the pie is just fine without it, but if you think the custard could use a little more richness, by all means, use it.
January 22, 2005
Not long ago I read an interview with Dame Judi Dench in Time Out New York, in which she admitted that while she still loved the excitement of working in theater, she still felt a small compulsion to announce at the beginning of every performance: "Now, does anyone need to have a cough? Let's all do it now, let's get it out of the way...all together now!" It is in the spirit of Dame Judi's words that I say to everyone, "Now, does anyone need to have a snicker? Anyone want to let their inner 14-year-old boy come out to play? Any Beavis and Butt-head impulses? Let's all do it now, on one...two...three..."
Dear friends, it is time to share the recipe for cock-a-leekie.
Cock-a-leekie soup
(makes 1 gallon of soup; feeds at least a dozen)
1 capon, approximately 8-12 pounds
2 pieces beef shin (approximately 1 pound total)
6 leeks, white and light green parts only
1 pound unpitted prunes
water to cover (about 16 cups)
salt and pepper to taste
Clean and slice half the leeks and tie them up in cheesecloth. Place the bundle of leeks, the beef and the capon (try to keep the bird in one piece if you can, but if it won't fit into your stockpot, then remove the wings and legs from the rest of the bird) into a 20-cup stockpot. Carefully put the pot over a medium flame and bring slowly to the boil. Skim the foam from the surface of the broth and cook slowly for three hours, skimming foam and fat as necessary. After the first 90 minutes of cooking, add the prunes and continue to cook.
When the meat is done, remove it from the stock. Remove the chicken and beef from their bones and remove any visible fat. Chop the beef and slice the chicken; set aside. Strain the stock, discard the leek bundle and the prunes (you can save the prunes to serve with the soup, but they will have given up their best flavor to the broth, so I never bother with serving them), and skim as much fat from the surface as you can.
Pour the broth to a clean pot and return it to the fire. Add salt and pepper to taste. Clean the rest of the leeks and chop finely. When the broth comes to a boil, add the leeks and let cook until soft. Return the chicken and beef to the pot and heat through.
You can eat this right now, or you can consign it to the fridge and eat it tomorrow, when it will taste even better. You can hold back the chicken and make chicken salad with it, and have the broth separately, like a consomme. You can add gnocchi, or pastina, or spaetzle, or barley, which would probably be the most correct grain to add. Myself, I'm a fan of a starchless cock-a-leekie, and so I keep the gnocchi in the freezer and the pastina in the pantry. Any way you eat it, you will be reminded that sometimes simpler really is better, and that any soup that evokes so much flavor from so few ingredients is the food of geniuses and kings.
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